Beginners start by riding the whitewash and have a blast just standing up. Eventually you get good enough to get down the line a bit and you’re hooked. If you stick with it for a few years, you’ll push yourself and get into some bigger and better waves. That’s when you get to experience the true thrill of surfing, when your capable enough to put yourself into critical parts of the wave and make it.

Surfing, for me, has been the most difficult sport to master, but also the most rewarding. It takes tremendous courage to push your limit, to go out in conditions that are beyond your comfort zone, whether that’s 3’ waves or 20’ waves, and endure. That’s when you’ll join the ranks and understand the surfing diehards, the one’s who make everything else revolve around surfing. And that’s when all you do is ‘live to surf’.