I’ve been surfing for around 20 years. I live in Santa Barbara, and live here mostly because of the surf. It’s unbelievable when you paddle out into the ocean when there are big waves. The surging and rolling of the swells and the feeling you get when you are under a wave’s curtain is that of fear, excitement, exileration, and awe. It’s as though you have accomplished the most dangerous, brilliant, most stupid, impossilbe feat when you pull into a huge barrel and make it out. And even if noone sees what you did, it lives with you for months, years, or even for the rest of your life.