learn how to surf

I’m back in Cali and have my surfboard here. I keep going to the beach and watch others surf. Now I need to clean off the old wax and rewax my board, drag my husband along, and hit the waves.

I got a surfboard about 7 years ago determined to learn how to surf. I took it out once and tried. When I fell off my board, I got held under for a while. I came up finally to try and take a breath and got knocked under again before I could. The thought of drowning scared the crap out of me. Well, after watching this young prissy girl on TV learn to surf and enter a contest, it made me think that I can do it too. So, my board is sitting in my parents garage in California and I’m moving back in 2 weeks…this is my opportunity.