And come out!!
19 months ago
I think I’ve been in the barrel 3 times. Once on a long board on accident and I fell before it closed out on me. And two other times when I thought I could hear it close behind me, but my eyes were closed. I want a REAL one. An intentional in-and-out. I haven’t been surfing regularly since I was preggo and now my daughter is 3. It’s hard to get out as much and my lack of practice makes me timid in bigger waves. Time to change that.
