surf

is the ocean. Miles and miles of a world unlike any other. Peace, serenity, me…

I hate to mark this goal done, but I want to focus on goals that are somewhat unreachable.

The twist is that I would love to surf everyday in which may become a future goal…

...Later

Last night I awoke to the sound of the sea. My senses woke up. Suddenly I could hear the foamy surf… trickeling, crawling, combing it’s wet fingers through the powdery sand.

I sat up, as if hearing my name being whispered in the night time breeze. From the lanai, a glimpse of the soft waves in the glistening moonlight was all I needed to persuade me from slumber. Before I knew it, I grabbed my board and was off to find the perfect midnight wave.

The sets were high, but tender. When the big one approached, I went for it. I instantly slid on to a cloud nine, but soon spiraled into an acid drop.

Biffff

That’s when I woke up with this terrible hangover!

Damn! I’m not in Costa Rica?

Learned in Santa Cruz, California – Kind of boring/sets are sparatic

Oahu, Hawaii – So touristy… A georgeous lifeguard put a bandaid on my knee from slamming into some coral. Nice summer fling :)

Hawaii – Big waves/a little scary

Kaanapali Beach, Maui – So much fun! I love being anywhere in that ocean!

Cozumel – (The other sie of the island) very frightening but a great challenge!

Capalua Bay, Maui – Mellow

Half Moon Bay, CA – Sharks!

Carmel, CA – Not long enough sets, but very clean

Playa Guiones, Costa Rica – Really great sets! A little rough, but I met some of the best surfers of all time there… the August family… Slater!

Nosara, Costa Rica – The surf schools are always fun to watch there

Playa Palada, CR – Rocky, but great free spa treatment!!! I have a secret cove that gets really steamy from the humidity. I use the coarse sand to rub on my skin (like a scrub) then apply the finer/muddier sand and let it dry… best facial I’ve ever had :)

I’ll have to add to this… It’s been pulling up all of these bitchen memories!

Since my heel surgery, I can’t do a damn thing… I want to jump on my balance board and ride away

I want to run away from this place and become a beach bum!