is the ocean. Miles and miles of a world unlike any other. Peace, serenity, me…
I hate to mark this goal done, but I want to focus on goals that are somewhat unreachable.
The twist is that I would love to surf everyday in which may become a future goal…
Last night I awoke to the sound of the sea. My senses woke up. Suddenly I could hear the foamy surf… trickeling, crawling, combing it’s wet fingers through the powdery sand.
I sat up, as if hearing my name being whispered in the night time breeze. From the lanai, a glimpse of the soft waves in the glistening moonlight was all I needed to persuade me from slumber. Before I knew it, I grabbed my board and was off to find the perfect midnight wave.
The sets were high, but tender. When the big one approached, I went for it. I instantly slid on to a cloud nine, but soon spiraled into an acid drop.
That’s when I woke up with this terrible hangover!
Damn! I’m not in Costa Rica?
Learned in Santa Cruz, California – Kind of boring/sets are sparatic
Oahu, Hawaii – So touristy… A georgeous lifeguard put a bandaid on my knee from slamming into some coral. Nice summer fling :)
Hawaii – Big waves/a little scary
Kaanapali Beach, Maui – So much fun! I love being anywhere in that ocean!
Cozumel – (The other sie of the island) very frightening but a great challenge!
Capalua Bay, Maui – Mellow
Half Moon Bay, CA – Sharks!
Carmel, CA – Not long enough sets, but very clean
Playa Guiones, Costa Rica – Really great sets! A little rough, but I met some of the best surfers of all time there… the August family… Slater!
Nosara, Costa Rica – The surf schools are always fun to watch there
Playa Palada, CR – Rocky, but great free spa treatment!!! I have a secret cove that gets really steamy from the humidity. I use the coarse sand to rub on my skin (like a scrub) then apply the finer/muddier sand and let it dry… best facial I’ve ever had :)
I’ll have to add to this… It’s been pulling up all of these bitchen memories!
Since my heel surgery, I can’t do a damn thing… I want to jump on my balance board and ride away
I want to run away from this place and become a beach bum!