Learn to surf

okay, so long since i’ve even been in this website…back to colorado and no surf here. the sting-ray attack did me in back in sunny southern california…the shit hurt like a mutherfucker and i was scared of the water after that…again i swear. snowboarding is the sickest ever though. there is my heart.

so not amped on this like i thought i would be. stung by a sting-ray on my fourth day and i have really no desire to take it any farther right now. get me back in the snow.

haven’t been out in the water since the last time i wrote or whernever the fuck that was….the water tempurature dropped like ten or fifteen degrees and i have no wetsuit and am not so in to hypothermia… so no attempts as of lately but the shit is going to be the sickest ever as soon as i understand and capture its’ essence

this morning was the second attempt at one of the most difficult things i’ve ever tried to learn. the ocean is so powerful. i’m on an old shitty short ass board, but it is a board nonetheless and i will continue to try until i can afford to buy a used longboard that will be much easier to learn on. i love being in the water though. so so rejuvinating. so much harder than it looks…and i want it so bad. baby steps…

some dude offered to teach me how to surf today when i was at work…he has a board for me and everything…cool don’t have to wait to buy a board to learn to surf…so SOON!!! like within the next week for sure. hell yah.

like less than two weeks until i can afford to by a used board, a pair of trunks and a rash gaurd and then i’m in that water everyday. i cannot wait.

like two more weeks tops before i am in the water. i cannot wait.