I’ve kind of had something to say during the past four weeks, but I’ve held my tongue since it has only limited relevance to “Learning to bake.”
Better just to let it all out at once! ;)
That said, I did actually get to bake something during the time I spent as a trainee in this little lunch restaurant. Basic French breads and rhye loaves and wheat rolls – there were several little tricks and experiments I managed to learn from the different breads. The biggest problem remains on how to shape a bread about 450-500 grams in weight (think F- to G-cup boobs), because I keep hitting the table with the tips of my fingers while doing the rotations. It becomes somewhat painful after a while. My left hand doesn’t work as efficiently as my right hand, and it tires faster. I’ve done some benchpress in my time, but repeated shaping of bread really taxes on the breast muscles (mainly because my technique is wrong). This is something that I have to focus on fixing…
Anyways, this week was my last one at the restaurant, so it’s back to baking fulltime. So did anything happen during this month…?
Biggest single thing was that I finally learned how to work in a kitchen environment. It’s subtly (but decisively) different from working in a bakery; the main difference being that foods are served immediately, as opposed to breads that are always prepared ahead of time. With a prepared dish in front of you, the tension is more ‘at hand,’ while a batch of breads going into the oven will still be scrutinized for a long while before consumption. It’s easy to see why some would choose one over the other.
This sense of laid-back responsibility in baking easily deceives. Even with the added control between working on the product and the customer receiving something for their money, a baker has so many projects going on at once that they have to all go smoothly, or else! However, it’s easier to feel the adrenaline rush when you can actually see all the people coming in to eat what you prepare for them. For a baker there’s no real equivalent reward, as people buy their breads and then go home to eat them. There’s not an established routine for going out and eating bread, while restaurants have long since specialized in cultivating this system for themselves.
The realizations along this road made it easier for me to see why a kitchen reminds me most of a military boot camp. At first you start as the lowest of the lowly slaves, scrubbing the toilets with a toothbrush until you have shown inner complacence.
(This is figuratively speaking, of course.)
Starting from cutting the vegetables is more or less clear to anyone who has been working in a kitchen and thought about it. Every kitchen has their own flavor and working methods, and a new worker has to adapt – rather than everyone else adapt to the new worker. Cooks are overworked enough as is, constant changes in their work routines bring in unnecessary stress. Going with this, we get the urban legends of a Chef having experience from various Michelin-restaurants spending their first weeks at some kitchen cutting the carrots, and the potatoes, and the cabbage, and the zucchini, and… well, you get the picture. Inbetween of cutting and mincing and slicing they have to memorize how the products are supposed to look like. Work orders on different dishes, how they taste, where all the tools are located at, how to move around in the kitchen chaos, etc.
For me it was a humiliating revelation, and well deserved because of it.
The two first weeks at the restaurant were sort of wasted for me. I didn’t understand at all what was expected of me. I didn’t have any theory studies on cooking (still don’t have), so everything was new and wondrous to me. Baking was something I had experience on already, so that’s what I did there. Some mornings I’d do the salads and other cold foods, but it was clear from my attitude that I had zero interest in this. I thought I came there to cook! As a free worker even! At this point I had a very useful conversation with the owner of the restaurant where we cleared several misunderstandings about each other, and from there on I switched from the cold foods/breads to working on the lunches and served dishes. The amount of stuff I got to cut multiplied by the dozens; my right hand is still slightly worn out behind the thumb. This change was good, nevertheless, and the two last weeks I spent in a much more constructive way. I looked with a sharp eye as the owner did the foods and I asked about anything I could think of. On the final day I more or less did one of the lunches all by myself. If that had been the end of my second week there, I think I’d have gotten much further along after two more weeks of cooking. (Naturally I had to learn about the cold foods at some point too!)
On the technical side of cooking, I realized that I have to taste each and every dish before any customer gets to eat them. (Doesn’t apply to the meat in beef dishes and similar situations, naturally…) If it so happens that the dish tastes totally horrible, like somehow double the amount of salt went in it, it can be pulled out and rather apologize profusely to the customer than give them something like that to eat. All the dishes tasted fine… but of course there was the little thing called vegetarianism I had to push aside. I now eat all kinds of meat again, after almost ten years of vegetarism. I wasn’t a total vegetarian since I ate eggs and fish meat sometimes, and because of that occasional fish bringing in the rest meats wasn’t any problem to my stomach. Maybe there was a slight queasy feeling for a day or two, but after that I could eat a whole beef and not feel any real difference. I don’t think I’ve lost anything by having been a vegetarian for so long. Rather, I can appreciate meat in my own way, not having eaten it in so long. At home I cook mostly vegetarian dishes still, because I’ve become so used to the routine… Maybe now I add some meat element somewhere.
Another technical part was that in the two bakeries I worked before, both of them had someplace you could sit for at least few minutes for some breaks like a snack/lunch break/etc. In the restaurant there was absolutely no place to sit down inside the kitchen! It took a while for my legs to get used to this. I even ate standing up every day. If I didn’t go to the toilet during the day, I ended up standing and walking all the way from the bus stop in the morning to the same bus stop in the evening. Sometimes the loading area had some boxes that you could sit on while eating, but I quickly learned that if you start to sit a little, then you start to sit a lot. Easier to just bite it and stay upright.
Baking inside the restaurant was a challenge of its own. There were several critical problems that dominated the decisions on what and how to bake…
- The room temperature was awfully cold. Between the bigger oven and the stove was the only really warm place, but there was no room for baking anywhere near there. The breads were done in the back where a nice smooth working table had been installed just for the purposes of baking. It was a plastic table, albeit a high quality one, and as such couldn’t compete with a real wooden worktable—but it was definitely passable for the purposes of baking.
- No specialized chamber for leavening the breads. This gave some real headaches for me, having to leaven the breads on top of the 20 kilo food boxes that were kept above 60 degrees Celcius, or on top of the dishwasher, or on top of the oven, or anywhere warm where there was space… If you thought you could leaven the breads in conditions like this, it didn’t work with normal times or amounts of yeast. I put about a quarter to half the amount of extra yeast (and some extra sugar) in all the bread doughs, since the fermenting was problematic enough as it was. After putting them in the oven, the “oven leavening” part of fermenting usually worked overdrive since the breads didn’t leaven enough even with longer times. If you look at a bread along the edges, just where the bottom crust starts to turn up, if you see the bread being ripped upwards from there it means the baker had the same problems as I had. The crust is supposed to be mostly very smooth there. Also because of time constraints, sometimes the breads had to be put to the fridge for a couple hours after shaping before I had time to keep an eye on the leavening. Surprisingly the hours they spent in the fridge seemed to help the leavening more than harm it.
- An unpredictable oven with its weird steaming function. The oven was running on overdrive always, and all the suggested baking temperatures had to be decreased by about ten to twenty Celcius to get a good baking temperature. The steam was very funny in this oven, it just spit water inside the oven that then steamed if it was hot enough. For the foodbreads I put that for about half a minute then turned it off. In a oven designed more for baking you can set a timer for how many seconds it blows hot steam (really blows it inside the oven) before turning off. Eight-twelve seconds is usually enough.
- A tough customer crowd. It was a restaurant where people came to eat food, not bread. Most of the breads I made were sliced and put on the lunch table where everyone could take what they wanted if they paid for the lunch. Only a few people realized you could buy fresh bread loaves from there (with quite competitive prices), so it was more of a curiosity than anything to do business with. Anyways for a small restaurant, every penny counts…
Even with all this, we managed to make several good batches of bread. Most of the time I worked alone on them, but the owner’s wife (a student on the ‘adult side’ evening school courses) and I had some good challenges with these conditions.
I’ve often thought about becoming a cook in the past. My uncle is one, and I’ve been at his restaurant in the past. (He moved out from Finland quite a long while ago, and it’s been almost ten years since I last visited) Becoming a baker was more of a twist of fate in the road to becoming someone who works with food. Actually this happened while I was working as a dish washer and kitchen helper at another place, before I enrolled at the baking school, and all the cooks there said they hated being cooks. One of them said if he’d thought about it more, he’d have become a baker instead of a cook. They can do cool desserts and such and always have that side well in hand, while everyone can do food because it’s so simple to do.
While there’s some truth in this, I do realize there’s more to it. ;)
Now after one month of cooking behind me, I could conceptualize one good reason for not becoming a cook: I really hate throwing away food that I’ve prepared.
Some of the food gets always thrown out, that’s a given. People can’t be expected to lick the big containers clean, and you always have to prepare a tiny bit more than is eaten, just in case. This becomes a problem when there’s a big container full of untouched food that could feed 20 people. And it has to be thrown into the trash. My heart feels betrayed at the unfairness of this.
I’m not alone with these sentiments, it seems. It’s just something that I have to mull over before I can really consider myself becoming a full-time cook. Some restaurants pack their old foods into little lunch boxes and sell them at discount for weekend snacks or whatever. Others try to donate their foods to the poor or something. I’d do this most likely, but seeing it up close made me realize that it doesn’t work. Once people learn that they can get free food if they wait until the restaurant closes down, you get queues forming up five minutes before closing time. If you want to take the food to someplace where they donate it to the homeless, who will pay for the transporting? I have to go home and sleep so I can work for another day, I don’t have the time and strength to go around the city handing out free food on top of a very tiring day at work. Therefore, off to the trash it goes. Almost every day, I stuffed myself from the foods about to be thrown out. And my heart wept for all the food I couldn’t eat.
In a bakery you don’t see this process firsthand. Bakeries generally offer to buy back all the bread that the stores couldn’t sell for them, which means you do get your children back in your hands, only so that you can close your eyes and throw them away.
I don’t think I’ll ever get used to throwing food away.
Last point was about my new workplace. I still didn’t get to the confectionary kitchen I wanted to go to (Cafe Eckberg, the oldest cafe in Finland it seems), but my teachers promised me I could possibly get a training place there before the summer break. I’m placing all my hopes to May this year, it being a very busy month in confectionaries with all the graduating around and cakes being sold everywhere, and almost none regular trainees being out from the baking schools at that time of the year.
Anyways I got a place from a very good place, one that I sent an application earlier already to try and get a workplace for the little vacation weeks and weekends, but no cookie. I now know it was because I sent the application to the wrong person. ;D
It’s one of the last middle-sized bakeries in Finland. They’re all but extinct as the bigger ones have been swallowing them up for the past decades. Really only big factories and tiny bakeries remain, with an odd one out still making a name for themselves like the Haaga Bread. (I have no idea if this is the official translation, but it can’t be too far from this).
They have a bakery and a confectionary side both, and a lot of people from the school I go to have found a job there after graduation. I’m definitely trying to get a summer job from there, so I have to do a good impression during that month. All the three previous training workplaces did give good feedback on the work I did for them, so I’m hoping it went right so far.
The only snatch, work starts at 6 am. It wouldn’t be a problem in summertime, since I can get there in 15 minutes with bicycle… We got a sudden snow attack here in Finland just in this month, so the cycling option is out. The only bus I have a chance at getting there in time leaves 5.20 am – because I have to switch to another bus midway – so I’ll have to wake up probably before 5 am. Well, I did go to work at 6.25 am every morning before Christmas, but for that one I left with the 6.05 am bus… Waking up 5.45 am. It remains to be seen what kind of sleeping rhythm I settle into. I’m guessing I have to go to sleep at 9 pm at the very latest, and probably take naps after work.
Only thing I can draw joy from is that another student from my class will be joining me in this Hell-routine. ;) It’s his first training job place, and my fourth. I hope I don’t have to worry about his work pace. He’s so young too, only 17. The work starts in February and lasts for a month, ending in early March. I’m waiting this with mixed feelings – ‘hopeful’ on the forefront.
At school I’ll be finally completing the ‘hygiene passport’ in a test. Have to get 33/40 points to get the pass. It’s supposed to be an easy test, but I still hope I’ve prepared enough…