buy a bespoke suit

I tried on the suit for the final time yesterday, with the shoes, and I’m totally in love with it, so much as someone can be in love with an inanimate object.

The bespokeness continues, though, because Scott Kuhlman is also making my shirt and bowtie, and they too are going to be totally awesome.

The whole process has been truly delightful, and I recommend Kuhlman for anyone in Seattle who needs a perfectly tailored suit.

I love this process! Today I got to try on the first layer of materials that will eventually become my suit. We made the pant legs a little longer, a little slimmer. We’re gonna put a seam on the lapel, tuxedo-style, but without the satin. Very subtle. I’ve chosen the lining (a beautiful garnet), and got measurements taken for a shirt as well.

The first fitting went really well. I like how it is fitting together. I like how my preferences for fit are all being taken seriously, and that Scott’s expertise and style is also playing a role in making the vision for a modern take on an old-fashioned suit come to life. No vents, a single working button on the sleeve, peaked lapel, two big buttons, a boutonnière strap, no chest pocket, highly tapered. It’s gonna be beautiful!

Met up and talked with Scott Kuhlman about my suit, and finally got to the part that I’ve been really excited about… details.

After talking about the bigger vision (rock and roll speakeasy) we brainstormed about ways to merge some old school details with a more modern aesthetic. Specifically:

• Narrow peaked lapel. A peaked lapel is traditionally used exclusively on double-breasted suits, but in more modern times has come to single-breasted suits.
• No breast pocket. I’m going tuxedo-style which doesn’t have a pocket square. Instead, I’m gonna have a little loop for a boutonnière.
• Crazy lining.
• One functional button on each sleeve
• No vents (tuxedo-style)
• On seem front pockets on the pants
• One back right pocket on the pants
• Shiny buttons, or some other cool buttons that he’s gonna look for in NYC and LA
• Slim fit, tapered pants
• Garnet bow tie and cummerbund for me, matching bow ties for all of my groomsmen

It was a lot of fun talking about these details while finishing off a bottle of wine he had for such occasions. Eventually, Frank came and took all of my measurements.

Next step: first fitting, where I think I’m gonna get to try on the first version of the suit.

Scott and I ended up choosing a slightly fancier fabric, with a bit more texture. He says I’m gonna have to sip fancier cocktails in that suit than I would have had to in the other.

We talked a bit about the style… a wider lapel to go with a bigger bow tie. He’s gonna make the bow ties and cummerbunds for me and my groomsmen as well. It’s all gonna be awesome.

Next step is a first fitting. Maybe sometime in the next week or so.

I chose a fabric, which unfortunately Kuhlman doesn’t stock enough of to make a full suit. So Scott’s gonna call the maker in New York and see if they can get more of it, or something close to it.

Still, exciting!

I talked to Scott Kuhlman this weekend and he introduced me to the process of making a bespoke suit. It takes approximately 8 weeks, and has the following steps:

1. Choose a fabric
2. Get sized
3. Come in for the first fitting
4. Talk about the style and details
5. Come in for a second fitting
6. Walk out with a new suit tailored exactly to me!

I’m super excited about this. I found a couple fabrics that I really liked and got little samples of them to consider. I’m gonna go back this Sunday to tell him my final selection and to get this party started.

I think I’m going to have it made at Kuhlman, because I like the people that work there, like the quality of their work, and they have pretty good prices.

This suit is going to be for my wedding next October. I’m trying to gain weight so I’m not going to start having this made until a bit later in the year, to make sure it still fits.