become a better surfer

Surfing is such a thrill, i love it. If i lived near the beach i would be in the ocean all the time. When i went surfing i was trying to ride this wave and i completely wiped out. It seemed liked i was under the water forever. I came up coughing, gasping for air. At first i was scared to get back on my board, but then i thought that was exhilerating. FUN right!!