I’ve been surfing for almost 17 years, and I’m still not very good at it. I love doing it though. My problem is that I’m not fast enough at “popping-up”. I end up doing a combination kneeboard one-footed stance-to-bail. My legs are strong enough, but there is something in the mid-section that is reluctant to doing what it should to make it all happen. Why am I writing all of this? To encourage everyone not to give up. Sufing is fun, but the challenge is even better.
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