Learn to surf

I actually went swimming after work! It’s the journey. I’m just so glad as if I finally went to the gym on the first day or something. I feel empowered and stronger. Oh and it rained on me in the water.

I was watching the surfers yesterday morning before work. We had a south swell so tons of Honolulu surfers were out. Told the guy next to me that we live in heaven and he agreed. He asked if I surf and I told him of my fear of being scraped on the reef by a monster wave. He gave me tips for leaving stuff at home so I can go in the water. He said the water is healing. I think I’ll swim today. I could use some healing.

I’m wondering whether to keep this goal or just give up. It’s like that gym membership that never gets used. Maybe I’ll go swim at the beach today instead of sitting here.

One reason that I haven’t surfed yet is that I haven’t figured out where to keepy stuff if I want to swim alone. A new friend told me to just take the towel board and keep the car key with you. This advice moved me a step closer. I love him!

naked at least once.