be a better boulderer

how this relates to being a better boulderer? In a week I’ll be off from my commitment to run/jog everyday. Then I’ll be on the boulder/climb everyday for 30 days.

BTW, Today I have made a traverse up in Franciabánya (R to L) and it went fine.

(OK, a bit of whining, just for the sake of it!)
I was so sicko for the past 6 weeks that I did not even compete. Where’s all my training efforts went (two times powerendurance + 1-2 times bouldering)?
Climb on,

I am climbing in series now. Twice a week I go to a local quarry (Franciabanya – French Quarry), with a friend and we do the pyramid stuff. 3 – 3 – 2 – 1 – 2 – 3 – 3. The routes are Létra (Ladder) VI-, Inkvizició (Inquisition) VII-, Y (Ypsilon) VII() and ? VII/VIII- in respective order.

It sounds dull, but I guarantee you it works.

Beside this I do some power training to keep up (pull ups, push ups and belly presses) twice a week.
Will see in the winter season if it did help or not!

And next Summer, I’ll do one arm pull up(s)!

:)

We have got some good climbing recently with Bela my friend.
Twice a week we are going to Franciabanya (obscured quarry up hill in Budapest). Climbing laps on a 8-10 meteres high rock face. I am doing an easy pyramid of 3+3 on Létra (Ladder, VI- or 5c or 5.9) 3+3 on Inkvizicio (Inquisition, VIImin. or 6a+ or 5.10a) then 3 of Ypsilon (Y, VII+ or 6b+ or 5.10c).
Bela is doing only 2+2 on Inquisition and 1 Y. Only 1 Ladder and 1 Y is climbed on lead the rest can be top-ropped (for speed).
Today we have done the full set of laps in 58 minutes from first tye-in to tye-out.
Friday night I am raising the bar (1 more Y and 1 more route which has a name lost in the wind and is rated VIIImin. or 6c+ or 5.11a).
Ta-daam…

Had a brief climbing session yesterday. 50 km west of Budapest, in Kis-Gerecse quarries. We only tried one route on the impressive overhanging (6 meters on 15 at its max) Main Wall, aptly named “Rain Wall”. The warm up VIII+ (7a+ or 5.11d/5.12a) was soaking wet thus we have set on the thugish starter and thin finger crack ending Metamorphosis IX- (7b+ or 5.12b or c).
Didn’t do good at all! Could not even top rope it.
We have agreed with Csabi, that we have to follow the training regime presricbed by Tódi, and let our fingers get used to our new forz step-by-step.

Last Saturday I have been sporting a boulder competition in Budapest Boulder Klub, a Buadpest boulder gym listed here. I came in at the 23rd sport out of 65ish boy. There was two ugly ankle injuries. The first a complete tendon roll up. The second just infront of me. This later was only a tough pull.
By the way you can find my name listed with Gedeon Péter on the ranking 20th in a Hungarian article

They are hard as hell. At least for me.

Usually, I am acting helpless while going up – both my legs trying to help me propel up, and looking like a frogs electrified ham…
and looking like a monkey when descending.

My time is 20 minutes for the 10 reps and in the last three I have to make pauses and eventually match hands in the last 4-5 moves.

Todi just warned me that we should have the 10 min. test again (eg. how many times I can do the ladder in 10 min). I have replied that I am happy enough to be back in training and look for another 3 weeks.

To be honest I have only been training once in the past 2 and 1/2 weeks.

Now, I will slowly start with running again as spring has arrived and my nasal cavities and bronchitis got better.

Ok, some would say this is campus boarding. Fine, I’ll describe. It is a slightly overhanging iron ladder with 12 steps (hold), each being approx. 40 cm from each other.
In a month I shall be doing a 10 laps set within 10 minutes. Last time in 10 minutes I could only do 6 laps and 2 zones (did not reach the top and got exhausted).
Will do it twice a week. Except in the week of March 15. Then First, I will go to North Dalmatia (Paklenica to climb big walls) and then to Prague on the weekend to compete in a bouldering competition.

Well, even though I did not put that much effort in it.
Also, for diets you shall not think about the “Wov, my waistline, where my waistline has gone?” kinda thing. I only record what I eat and sometimes (probably weekly) I calculate whether it is ok. Or use it as a simple tool to discover what works for me as a diet to enhance my climbing.

Seemingly with some yoga, morning wei dan and swimming it is controllable. Will see.
This week we have been training for competition with Tódi. The good old 4 minutes climbing (as many tries as you want) and 4 minutes resting.
Fairly tough even though I had easier routes or the same ones but with optional or all foot holds both times.
Next week we will do power training. Monday and Thursday probably, in the Boulder Club above the Mountex on Váci út.