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I was living in Oaxaca during Day of the Dead/Dia de los muertos 2005. Almost the entire month of October leads up to the fiesta days (Oct 31-Nov 4?). Its an incredible experience to be in Oaxaca during those days, spiritually and artistically.
The fiesta is a very family and community oriented event, but there is plenty for visitors to take part in. However tourists should be careful not to intrude on private and family events.
One misconception that many “goth” visitors seemed to have is that its a dark or macabre event. Hardly. More like a family reunion where many of the guests happen to be returning from the other side.
In most of Mexico this holiday is losing out to Halloween. In Guanajuato where I lived in 2006, Muertos was hardly acknowledged at all. Another region with a strong celebration of Muertos is around Lake Patzcuaro, Michoacan.