Surf more

Finally went surfing again after many months! My husband had a bad injury, and we’ve been too busy to go, but honestly I was also scared to surf again since the major incident that I experienced in January. I am taking it all in baby steps, and did great today! Caught some wonderful waves and was reminded again of why I like to surf and how much fun it can be :D It was so great to hear my husband cheer for me in support while understanding my need to take things slow. My goal is to just keep working on my mental strength with surfing and to go more often. I don’t want to be afraid of something I’ve worked so hard to be able to do.

been out both saturday and sunday surfinf this weekend, my bro flewdown soi took him in and helped his catch a few waves, he was a natural,i managed to catch a few impressive waves too!

brillian surf conditions, had a few awsome rides and even did a bit of carving, my friends were cheering, so good to get out and clear my head for a few hours

i finnished work early yeasterday and it was one of the niced days of the year, i loaded up the crappy old camper with surfboards and wetsuits and headed out with my friend, arriving at the beach we found there wasnt another person in the water (being march and cold in england not too much of a supprise) i got suited up and headed down the beach feeling pretty nervous of just how cold it was going to be in the water!, three hours later i find myself sitting on my board out the back of the set, a massive smile on my face and i start to laugh, i couldnt believe we were here, the sun was a speck on the horizon and the sky was a wash with crismson and yellow, i had been catching some excelent rides and had such a laugh with my friend we were talking about how lucky we were, we could be sat at home wasting out afternoon watching crap on tv and wishing we could be in a place like this. once out of the water we realised there was only one way to finnish off the day so we built a fire on the beach and had a beer and a some chips and chilled out, easily one of the best days of the year so far :)

To start off the New Year, my husband and I headed out to the ocean to go surfing. At first, things were going well, and we were having fun in the big waves. Unfortunately, the current was MUCH stronger than we gave it credit for, and gradually we were swept out to a part of the water that was very bad news for us. We literally paddled for a good 15 minutes as hard as we could, but did not budge an inch. I broke down for a good minute, and we were scared. But, all we could do was keep trying so I paddled as furiously as I could. My husband wasn’t able to follow and ended up in a very, very deep part of the ocean. There were people yelling to me, trying to tell me where to go. The waves were huge and wouldn’t stop coming. I finally saw several people standing by some rocks looking scared for me and I just chanced it even though they yelled for me not to paddle there (I later learned that there was a shelf there which has sucked people in before and they’ve died as a result). I was so lucky not to get the crap pounded out of me on the rocks or to get sucked in to the reef and drown. One of the guys there grabbed my board and set out to find my husband. All of I could think about was that I couldn’t see him. I was so scared, and it was a helpless, awful feeling not to have an ounce of control. The small crowd that had gathered ran over to me and gave me hugs, asking if I was alright, and telling me how lucky I was. I didn’t know any of these people, and yet, they were so concerned for me and my husband. I was so overwhelmed by their caring natures, and while the situation was a scary one, it was so rewarding to know that humankind and basic compassion do exist. My husband and the guy made it in, and it was a wonderful reunion. We hugged and called it a day. We spent much of the day talking about our experience; how crazy it had been but also how wonderful it was to know that people care. I learned that my husband was so freaked out about not knowing where in the water I was or if I was alright, that he was about to chance the HUGE waves and risk getting pounded and trashed. I am SO glad he didn’t (the guy found him right in time), but so in love with him and the fact that he’d be willing to do anything for me. We also took time to give major reverence to Mother Nature Herself. She humbled us, and we respect Her. We are just mere ants in Her world, and that’s okay. She deserves that understanding and respect. We will surf again, we’ve just learned how to read the water better. She needed us to learn and I am grateful. This is a great theme for our new year… Humility, gratitude and compassion ♥

Also, the best advice we got from it all? One of the veterans told it to us like this: “buy a bag chips, a soda… Sit down, eat da bag chips, drink da soda and watch da waves. By da time pau, you’ll know what the water is saying”. So true!

Went surfing, and did alright! The waves were pretty choppy, but we had some good rides! I’m definitely getting up faster, which is a great thing :D Hubby and I caught our last one in together!

Went surfing together and it was very, very fun! Big rides, but with a gentle feel… I even got pounded at one point, but the softness of the waves that day made it bearable.

Went surfing this past weekend together! The waves were rough but do-able; caught some amazing rides actually! I love that we are such beach people :D

Spent the entire weekend surfing together, it was just wonderful! The waves were perfect on both days; my husband and I caught a ridiculous amount of waves and just had a blast! I am proud to say that I am a zillion times better at surfing from when I first started almost a year ago :) My 1 year anniversary with surfing is coming up at the end of December, and I have come a looong way with my progress! It’s been a cool experience to stick with something, and watch everything just blossom :D I still have more improvements to go, but at least I can confidently say that I am a decent surfer!

We went surfing, and the waves were AMAZING!!! Since I paddle board more than I surf, I was nervous at first by the waves, but after I turtle dove the first few, I started charging waves and had a blast! I must’ve caught at least 20+, and they were all mostly awesome, long rides. I even caught a pretty steep one (for me) where my board was literally vertical with the wave, and I didn’t fall off or get pounded! I’m so glad my husband and I went out together, it was a much needed surf day :D