I live minutes from the beach and I rarely go surfing nowadays. It is unfortunate because I really enjoy the sport but I don’t improve because I hardly practice. I might need to schedule time to force myself to get out in the water… maybe it is what is needed so that I make sure to partake in an activity that I know will bring me joy. Plus, I want to get tubed one day! 4 years ago
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I think I’ve been in the barrel 3 times. Once on a long board on accident and I fell before it closed out on me. And two other times when I thought I could hear it close behind me, but my eyes were closed. I want a REAL one. An intentional in-and-out. I haven’t been surfing regularly since I was preggo and now my daughter is 3. It’s hard to get out as much and my lack of practice makes me timid in bigger waves. Time to change that. 5 years ago
The first one is all it takes. Make it out and let the hooting begin. 6 years ago