Get tubed

I live minutes from the beach and I rarely go surfing nowadays. It is unfortunate because I really enjoy the sport but I don’t improve because I hardly practice. I might need to schedule time to force myself to get out in the water… maybe it is what is needed so that I make sure to partake in an activity that I know will bring me joy. Plus, I want to get tubed one day!

I think I’ve been in the barrel 3 times. Once on a long board on accident and I fell before it closed out on me. And two other times when I thought I could hear it close behind me, but my eyes were closed. I want a REAL one. An intentional in-and-out. I haven’t been surfing regularly since I was preggo and now my daughter is 3. It’s hard to get out as much and my lack of practice makes me timid in bigger waves. Time to change that.

The first one is all it takes. Make it out and let the hooting begin.

I live 4 hours from the nearest break – and on the East coast. I’m up to the challenge. If I can’t get a hollow wave here I’ll just have to add a surfing safari to my list.