Delayed due to loss of strength due to chronic illness. I didn’t realize how much strength I had lost while I was sick until I got out into the ocean and was thrown around by the waves!!!
Must build muscle and try again next year.
Nov 15, 07:44AM PST | 0 comments
Nov 13, 02:29PM PST | 0 comments
kBryce homework, a little sleep, hell
I live 30 minutes from 3 different beaches. Yet I never go to them. It starts with the fact that I hate that sandy feeling after leaving, and that I wasn’t too happy with my body. But I really want to have more hobbies, and this seems perfect. [My sister surfs, even more of a reason]
Nov 12, 04:17AM PST | 1 cheer | 0 comments
After seeing David Rastomon surf i fell in love with the art. I have always been fascinated by the ocean. I ride my bike there almost everyday. I live close to newport beach and everytime i go i see surfers. I think surfing is an art. Everyone has there own style and uniqueness. I respect surfing the most because it is the mother of skateboarding. Skateboarding derived from surfing! I hear that if you surf itll have a tremendous impact on your balnce. And what better way to incoparate some surfing techniques into skating???
Im pretty stoked on this MAN!!!! I may be black but if im going to surf ima be the first black guy in the OC doing it!!!!
:’)
Nov 04, 01:22AM PST | 0 comments
Need to live by water first.. Work on that!
Nov 02, 05:17AM PST | 0 comments
now for the hard stuff :D x
Oct 30, 03:18PM PDT | 0 comments
it just looks so fun. i snowboard so maybe i will pick up surfing easily? or maybe not haha
Oct 29, 03:45PM PDT | 0 comments
I love the Beach, I have a passion that goes deeper than just having fun, I care for the Beach. Surfing looks like fun, and I’m willing to learn, and to get up when I fall down. It also looks like one of the best ways to be in tune with nature.
Oct 23, 04:29PM PDT | 0 comments
I actually went swimming after work! It’s the journey. I’m just so glad as if I finally went to the gym on the first day or something. I feel empowered and stronger. Oh and it rained on me in the water.
Oct 19, 01:51AM PDT | 1 cheer | 0 comments
I was watching the surfers yesterday morning before work. We had a south swell so tons of Honolulu surfers were out. Told the guy next to me that we live in heaven and he agreed. He asked if I surf and I told him of my fear of being scraped on the reef by a monster wave. He gave me tips for leaving stuff at home so I can go in the water. He said the water is healing. I think I’ll swim today. I could use some healing.
Oct 18, 10:08AM PDT | 3 cheers | 0 comments