Men’s clothing is pretty boring, by and large. We don’t have anything like the variety of women’s wear, from styles, to fabrics, to colors. The one mundane exception is the necktie.
I did a little research and discovered that this bit of attire has quite a history. The earliest known version has been found in the mausoleum of Shih Huang Ti, China’s first emperor, who was buried in 210 B.C. But it’s a mystery why his guards wore carefully wrapped silk cloths around their necks. Historians say other records indicate the Chinese did not wear ties.
In 113 A.D., Roman military genius Trajan erected a marble column featuring 2,500 realistic figures. They sport no fewer than three different styles of neckwear: shorter versions of the modern necktie; cloth wound around the neck and tucked into armor; and knotted kerchiefs much like cowboy bandannas.
It’s known that Roman orators often wore cloths to keep their throats warm, but soldiers did not typically do so. Ancient writers have suggested that only effeminate men covered their necks. Was this military neckwear some form of badge, perhaps?
No doubt the modern necktie owes its popularity to France’s “Sun King,” Louis XIV, circa 1660. Highly skilled Croatian mercenaries in his army wore silk kerchiefs around their necks. King Louis liked the style and adopted it as his own. The French word for tie, cravat, may be a corruption of “Croat” or rabat, which is French for a hanging collar.
As courtiers began copying the Croatians, ordinary soldiers began adorning their necks with lace and officers would sport muslin or silk cravats, often trimmed with embroidery. Soon commoners began wearing cotton versions, sometimes made of pleated black taffeta. The style spread to England and then the Americas in the 18th century.
The first time I wore a tie, it was a clip-on I wore to church in the 1960s. Later, my father taught me how to tie the four-in-hand knot that he always used. Although it’s worn widely in the United States, it’s not seen much elsewhere. I only learned the half and full Windsor knots when I began working Japan in 1975, and I’ve stayed with the symmetrical full Windsor ever since.
For a long time, I would wear anything but solid colors or striped ties, finding them much too traditional. I wore novelty ties (cartoons, abstracts, paisley, etc.) made of cotton or polyesther when I was teaching English in the late 1970s. When I became a copywriter in 1980, I started wearing silk floral patterns. I had one, in particular, that I loved and wore only on special occasions; it was sky blue, handpainted silk with cherry blossoms from a masterpiece by Van Gogh. I had bought it in Amsterdam and it cost me $120.
At one time, I must have owned several dozen ties. Choosing which one to wear for a day was an expression of my mood or the statement I wanted to make. I used to call the necktie my “leash on life.”
By the time I got into management in 1985, I had learned to appreciate conservative stripes and designer patterns, Kenzo, Ermenegildo Zegna, et alia. But to this day, the only solid-color ties I have ever worn were white for weddings or black for funerals. And I stopped wearing artificial fabrics, cotton or wool. Since 1990, all of my ties have been silk.
When I moved to Las Vegas in 2000, I gave away most of my collection. I now own only ten ties, the oldest being a Father’s Day gift from more than a dozen years ago. I have one “lucky” tie, one political tie, and one holiday season tie. The rest are pretty simple, color-coordinated to match my shirts and slacks.
Whenever I substitute teach at middle schools, I always wear a tie, even on casual Fridays. It’s a statement that says: “I’m here to work. This is my business attire.” The students seem to respect that. I’ve even received some nice compliments on my ties from them.
If anyone had asked me forty years ago whether I would ever enjoy wearing a necktie, I would have laughed and pretended it was like putting a noose around my neck. Today, I admit, the necktie is the one piece of men’s clothing I feel is worthy of celebration. Bless those Croatian mercenaries. Viva la cravat!