send a V3 bouldering problem

I sent the V3 “Ladder Climb” on my next trip to the gym!

Yes, sirs, my comeback has been more speedy than anticipated. After thinking the other day’s V2 was merely a fluke, last night I sent problem after problem at the same rating.

And I started working on the V3 I trust will be my first. “Ladder Climb” – a laughable misnomer.

It’s obvious when I compare my performance on high and low angle problems that my strength is in my fingers and forearms – not my biceps. Hard for me to hang lose, ya know?

But no matter. A low angle V3 is still a V3, due to some intense (for me) holds and reaches. On “Ladder Climb,” I was so close to the finish I could breath on it, but my footing gave way on a slippery match. I think I might get it tonight.

Last note: In anticipation of my impending success, I’ve started working on a V4 that’s all about crimping on awkwardly placed holds barely protruding from the wall. Not something I expect to complete before Santiago – but fun!

I don’t know if it’s because I was so out of practice or because Vertical World consistently rates their problems higher than Stone Gardens, but my first day at VW was horribly disappointing while my second and third days at SG were great.

So I’ll focus on SG. Proud of myself for several reasons: redpoint and on-sight climbs, and even one V2 yesterday. Granted, it was a low V2. I don’t even know why it was rated the way it was – but who am I to argue?

Memorable sends, let’s see: a V0 or V1 that crossed two perpendicular walls and involved down-climbing on an inverted face. A couple problems that involved gaining some momentum (not quite dynos, tho) and trusting the holds more than I’m used to.

All in all, I’m motivated and happy with my quick re-entry into the sport. Noticed what that trainer noticed in the gym – I’m much stronger in my forearms and back than in my biceps. On the wall, I can hold tight while crimping and such, but tire and slip off on “easier” holds that rely more on upper arm strength. Weird.

I’m also on the hunt for the perfect climbing shoe. For my foot. My first pair were comfortable, beginner’s, women’s La Sportiva Mythos. When those were stolen out of my car last year, I took it as an opportunity to move up in performance. So I went with a good all around women’s Five Ten Siren. I loved em. They were stealthy little performers, but the operative word here is unfortunately “little.” I bought a size too small (or so). My climbing declined because my toes hurt and the heel was too narrow.

Last week, I took them back to Second Ascent (a jewel of an outdoor store in lovely Ballard, Seattle). Sadly, they didn’t have larger Sirens in stock.

Trying on shoes, the host of strapping, scruffy young men at my aide kept repeating the mantra: “your toes should be curled but not hurting.” I had no idea that was possible. So I traded in my Sirens for Mad Rock Phoenix. One and a half size up. My toes felt ok (barely curled) but I quickly discovered my heels were swimming in the back of the bootie.

I tried laying strips of moleskin in the heel, with some success. Not an ideal solution.

Back in Second Ascent, another mountain man suggested we think “outside the box.” I’d looked at used shoes last time, to no avail. This time, we hit gold. I hope.

Evolv.

Miraculously, they fit my whole foot. I like the slightly more aggressive shape (than my Sportiva Mythos for example) with a lusciously soft interior. Now I know it is possible to have curled toes with no excruciating pain.

On to climbing.

(Isn’t it absurd how obsessed I am when I can barely send a V2?)

I’ve been working out recently, my legs are pumped, every day in training. Haven’t touched a rock wall in weeks, but tonight I’ll see where I’m at. Vertical World in the Interbay district.

Since I haven’t exercised or climbed in a minute, I’m further from this goal than ever before. But I’ve stepped up to V2 problems multiple times, then backslid, then worked up to it again. Now I’d like to send a V3 and keep climbing. We shall see…