become a better surfer

I am 52, and have been surfing on and off for about seven years. I go mostly to San Onofre Surf Beach; it’s an 84-mile drive from my house in West LA. I would like to try local places that don’t have too much attitude. Let’s surf together, then go to Marmalade’s for breakfast.

Surfing is such a thrill, i love it. If i lived near the beach i would be in the ocean all the time. When i went surfing i was trying to ride this wave and i completely wiped out. It seemed liked i was under the water forever. I came up coughing, gasping for air. At first i was scared to get back on my board, but then i thought that was exhilerating. FUN right!!

well i’ve owned a surf board for 15 years almost and i don’t really think i’ve improved much after my 2nd or 3rd year. After a few bad and rare wipe outs i’m a bit timid of the bigger waves and wimp out now and get more nervous rather than enjoy. I’d like to be more brave and loose my fear of wiping out and charge harder up and down the waves.

I know that some time has passed since my last entry regarding this goal, but anyway I would like you to know that I was able to improve my skills and became a better wakestyle rider finally.

From now on it just goes uphill!

When the weather is warm I go surfing everyday, but I usually only end up staying out there for an hour or so and Ive noticed my skills are not improving. This year Im taking it more serious, im going to dedicate myself, conquer my fears and become the best surfer I can be.

I got a new board a couple of weeks ago and have used it twice. Still trying to get the feel for it. At least now, I have no excuse for not going surfing more and therefore becoming a better surfer. :) I may not be very good, but I love trying and it is one of the most stress-relieving activities I can find. I will get better!

Hopefully, I’ll be able to improve my skills a lot this year, as I wasn’t that successfull in the last one.
Now, I’m going for some F16 kiteloops, to blinds with surface handlepass, etc. All in all I try to become a better wakestyle rider.

When the weather is getting better here the things should go much smoother from then.
Hopefully :-)