be a better surfer

To check this goal off! We went out yesterday and I feel confident enough to say that I am a good surfer :D My husband trusts my capabilities more now, and is at ease with not having to stay glued to my side in the water. I feel proud of myself that I can read the waves better, paddle for my own waves (with a hard board), and catch what I go for most times! I’ve been conversing with more people, especially girls, in the water and it’s neat to be accepted by the other surfers :D

We went surfing today, and the waves were very nice. I took my hard board out again, and did well! However, once again I was held under water by the current and this time it was particularly scary because it was for much longer than the previous times, and I actually swallowed a lot of water as I was trying to breathe. It is the most surreal feeling when I’m forcibly submerged in the water because I can see the sun streaming through the ripples; with the surface just inches within my reach. Moments like today are humbling; I’m reminded of how powerful the elements are, beyond my control. I’m at Mother Nature’s mercy and She will do whatever She wants with me. Thankfully today, She had a heart, and I emerged breathless with a ‘Charlie horse’. I almost threw in the towel at that point, but after I regained my composure, I decided that the waves were too perfect to give up on, so I continued surfing. And I am GLAD that I did because afterwards, I surfed better than I ever have! I caught my first truly steep wave, and it was an amazing feeling; like plummeting downhill really fast and being met with a flat impact (if that makes any sense). All I know is that as I paddled ferociously for this particular wave, I kept mentally telling myself not to screw it up or else I’d end up under water again! Once I accomplished this feat, it’s as though I became completely rejuvenated and I just kept catching wave after wave after wave, some steep, some regular, some small. My husband told me later that he was watching me catch some of the steeper waves and was worried that I would eat it! He was so proud that I did well :D We also saw a friend of ours in the water who is actually a pro-surfer, and he told me that I was doing great and “rippin’ it”! Coming from him, that was a huge compliment given his skill, and it helped validate that I am indeed improving and becoming a better surfer :D

Yesterday my husband and I checked out the waves again, and although they were a little flat, there were still some occasional good sets. I took the hard board out again and was met with success :D Lately I have been trying for steeper waves, but I still have a ways to go with that!

My husband and I went surfing last week and yesterday too. Last week the waves were slamming, more than yesterday, but… Unlike last week, I finally used a normal board! So no more foam action for me! Although the adjustment was a little challenging, since the board is heavier and more slippery, I still managed to catch some great waves and hold my own out there; my husband was really proud :D The only scary thing was that I got caught by a set of waves in the “gnarly spot” and was held under; I couldn’t breathe or come up for air and I panicked a bit. But it ended up being alright and I got outta there! All in all, it was a successful day! Pretty soon I think I am going to check this goal off, but I’ll wait until I’ve gone out on the “hard” board a few more times :D

Last week we went surfing again after missing out for a few weeks. I was a little worried that I’d have a hard time getting into the routine again, but it’s like riding a bike. The muscle memory is there! And I did wonderfully :D Some of the regulars now recognize us and will talk to us from time to time. One of the older guys that’s always there will yell out to me that I’ve been practicing, which makes me laugh! But at same time, I’m thrilled that I’m noticeably improving.

Although I haven’t really been able to be here as much as I’d like, I have been going surfing on and off; with continued improvement! I feel that I can officially say that I CAN surf, but I won’t consider myself a full-fledged good surfer until I can master a regular board. My husband and I will going surfing together again soon!

Last week and yesterday we went surfing again, and as the trend goes, there was more improvement :D I am consistently riding longer waves, and am able to catch the ones I go after for the most part. The only disappointment is that the tide has been low, and the water flat, but we’ve still managed to score some good waves with minimal injuries ;D

Went again today. This time, very early since we had a party to go to in the early afternoon! We were in the water between 7-8am, and it was beautiful and glassy. Very few people were there which was an added bonus. And we rocked it today! My husband and I caught a few waves side by side again :D The best part is that I caught some LONG rides, and was able to mess around with my balance as I practiced bending low, standing tall, and leaning my body into the turns to steer. We agreed to catch a wave back to the shore after an hour and a half, and I got a good one! It took me all the way back to my final destination, over 500 feet away :D It was a GREAT morning. At the rate I’m going, I will be ready to upgrade to a “real” board (non-foam) in a month or so!

We went to our favorite surf spot today and we were very successful! There were so many waves, it was nuts :D The best part was when my husband and I caught one and rode it side by side. I also rode many other waves on my own for long stretches; my balance is improving rapidly! However, I definitely got rolled at one point and was continuously somersaulting in the water when I got stuck in a bad spot. But aside from that, the superficial gash on my forearm, and my swollen hand (from getting accidentally smacked by another surfboard), I had SO much fun!! We are probably going back tomorrow for more :D

We went out again today, and I did great! The waves were pretty calm, but there were still occasional sets that rolled in. The first wave I caught was a good one and I rode it for awhile. I also caught about three other waves afterwards, but they were weaker so the ride was pretty limited. But still, I can tell my balance is much better and that I am far more confident with surfing :D I love it!!