surf everyday

all ive done is surf this summer, and i can say without hesitation that its been one of the best summers ever. i’m always chilled out, and every drive to the beach is exciting. oooh the anticipation as i walk to the waves

I want to live on a beach away from all the busy shit in this country. Surf everyday, eat fresh seafood and fruit, never wear a shirt or shoes, sleep in a hammock outside, drink cold beer at the end of the day and watch the sunset, and just take it easy. I don’t need a bigtime career, to be famous, have lots of money, be popular or any of that shit. No big house, car, and all of the stressful crap we fill our lives with in this country. I want the simple life. Who’s with me?

We just had a storm roll through here last night. This morning we woke up to 7 to 9 foot swells up and down the coast. It was a brisk day. Puffy white clouds and overcast. Haven’t done it in such a long time that I’m actually hurting this evening.

winter is almost over and i want to see if i can surf everyday for 3 months to make up for the last year of laziness

I want to be able to surf every day!!!