be a surfer

There is nothing I would want to do more than learn to surf and catch a wave.

I don’t just want to surf. I want to think like a surfer. Surfers do not look back. Surfers live for the moment.

Free spirit! Yeah!

Ok, so I just got back from flordia. Stayed in Daytona, right on the beach, the first two nights. Ankle snapper waves. One or two feet high. No good for surfing. Not even good for body boarding. I know. I tried that, at least. Then while we were in Orlando, we drove out to Cocoa Beach. Stopped at Ron Jon’s Surf Shop, that famous surfing Mecca, and then to the beach. Once more, ankle snappers. Even the seasoned surfers couldn’t do much with them. So after a bit I switched from body boarding to skim boarding. And after a lot of falling down, I finally fell for the last time. I heard a loud pop and a horrible pain overtook my ankle. I’ve broken an ankle before, so and this felt much the same. Dad helped me up the beach, and the lifeguards didn’t even notice until we were almost to the car. A nice man did see us before that and help us though. I texted a bunch of people and told them to pray. We spent three hours in the freezing ER…to find out….that it was a sprain!!! I think that it may have been broken before everyone prayed, be we may never know. So I’ve been hobbling around on crutches, and I can walk as long as I wear my splint, but it’s slow and dangerous, so when I’m going somewhere I still use the crutches, but this might be one of the last days. But hey, we got in the fast lines at Disney because I was in a wheelchair! Anyway, I still want to learn to surf. I will. As soon as I can. Sitting still is getting to me a bit. I can’t run, but I did Pilates this morning, and I might be able to ride an exercise bike. But wow! Praise God it wasn’t broken!

yes! We are going to FLORIDA for vacation! Soon, either the last week of January, the first week of February, or the last week of February. Yes!!! I get to learn to SURF!!!! I have wanted to do this for as long as I can remember. I LOVE the ocean. I want to live on a beach someday. Now, any one who surfs, is this something I can teach myself? Like, rent a board and just go for it, or do I need lessons? Or how much does a good board cost, would it be better to buy one? Is there a sort of surfing etiquette I need to know about? Also, my mom is concerned about sharks. Should she worry? Any help at all would be appreciated!

yup. that’s my problem. i love the ocean i love the beach, but i’m terribly far away. someday, i want to live on a beach, go surfing all the time. yes.