learn to surf in Hawaii

I SO want to learn to surf! I have often wondered through the years why I was not born in the right place, with the right body to surf, surf, surf. I always thought I should be a beautiful Hawaiian pro surfer/model like Malia Jones. I am 5’10” tall, and whenever I have expressed a desire to learn to surf or snowboard, people have told me that those sports are for people with different builds than me! :-(

I learned to surf in Hawaii last summer with a bunch of volunteer fire fighters—hot ones!

I had never surfed in my life and they took us to this secluded beach, it was summer and we weren’t on the North Shore so the waves were small. We had these huge long boards that were impossible to turn but everyone was riding waves. They even had a camera man on the beach with a zoom lens to capture everyone’s tumbles and chakas and bottoms falling off. He made a picture slide show for us with Jack Johnson music in the background and invited us out drinking. It was a great experience.

Now when I’m stressed out I think about surfing in Hawaii and I get all zen-like.