Surfing is the hardest thing I have ever done. The fact that I have accomplished more than I thought I would or could makes me happy. The first time I stood up was the biggest joy of my life.
I used to live in a surf town. I could surf every day. The unfortunate thing is that the work in that town is minimal and I began to loathe my job. And the lifestyle of the people there got to me, so I ended up moving. I went overseas and figured since I was going for so long, I could sell my surf gear and just buy new stuff there (more to choose from anyway).
It didn’t happen that way. Which means I have not been surfing in a year and a few months, and desperately miss it. Since I don’t live in that little surf town anymore, the most I can hope to go is once a month, if that. I need my gear back.
And so, in regards to this goal – if I don’t surf every day, my hopes of achieving what I believe would be the most amazing experience in the world is going to be near impossible.
So I suppose I have to move. Or something. One day.
